Traveling Around India: Update Part Two

So, here I am again, in an over-priced Internet Cafe. This time, in Jaipur, Rajasthan though. Here's a bit of an update on what I have been up to (again, pictures can say 1,000 words)

Leaving Rishikesh was actually quite difficult. Not, challenging per say, but it was hard to say goodbye to such a safe and beautiful place. Not to mention, the idea of heading back to Delhi was less than delightful. Nevertheless, I hopped on a bus from Haridwar and headed back to the great capital city.

 Really, back in Delhi, I was just being a tourist.

India Gate, New Delhi

I also went to Wengers Bakery in Connaught Place. It was a tad expensive, but the pizza and peach cobbler made up for the last sleepless night I spent in the same city. It was also nice to pass the day away on the Central Park lawn (although not nearly as beautiful as the Central Park in NYC, in my opinion). I also experienced the cram-as-many-people-as-you-can into the New Delhi Metro Car.  Although you quickly become claustrophobic (and I am sure my lack of a shower in many days definitely offended some clean and well-dressed city girls), the Delhi metro is relatively easy to navigate, and is an inexpensive way of getting around the city.

That night, I hopped on a sleeper bus (YES, a sleeper bus - much less comfortable and much more joslte-y than a sleeper train) to Jaipur. I headed to Rajasthan a) because it is majestic in its own right and b) because I would be WWOOFing there for a week. WWOOF is an acronym for "Willing Workers on Organic Farms" (but, I have also heard it, "World Wide Organization of Organic Farms"). Although I have never done a day of farm work in my life (heck, I avoid lawn work at all costs...) I was eager to see what it was all about. I had been interested in doing a WWOOF project for a while; also, since over half of India's economy/workers are in the Agricultural Sector, it seemed necessary for me to live/work on a farm to complete my own picture of India. In fact, when you WWOOF, that is exactly what you do. The whole point is that it is a barter/exchange system of sorts. You work during the day for food/shelter. My trip to Jaipur wasn't exactly comfortable, but I really think the US should get some sleeper buses because the whole thing was quite the experience.

 OH, right - I was a tourist in Jaipur too...

...but I mean come on, it was one of the first things I saw when I got off the bus.

When I arrived at the farm, I honestly had no idea what I was getting myself into. I didn't know what the work was going to be like, or if there was anyone else there. In fact, I had trouble even getting to the farm because the directions were a bit basic, and I was being A LOT paranoid. After a 3km hike, I finally reached the farm - in the middle of literally no where. Not North Weare (No Where) but ACTUALLY hidden in the most rural landscape. Positive first impression: it will be quiet. Other first impression: why am I spending my "vacation time" on a farm?

 The whole landscape was pretty impressive though...

So, when I arrived I was actually greeted by ANOTHER Sarah. Yes, a Sarah from Switzerland. She had been on the farm just a few days, but helped get me situated rather quickly. I was taken to my room, which I learned to enjoy after a few nights... but the first sight of it nearly brought me to tears. Not because it was less than adequate; it was just a cot, with a dirty blanket, one light bulb (which sometimes worked when there was electricity), a straw-thatched roof, and a dirt floor. OH - and did I mention the mice, cockroaches, and spiders that also lived in the room (and would stay with me for the whole week I was there?)...

As I said, I learned to like it (enough) after a few days, but it was not high class accommodations -  not that I needed them or really expected them.

 The view from the window was nice though

ALSO -  this picture is of the bean field I cut down. Yes. Me, cutting beans...

The days were actually structured quite nicely. We were up at 7, helped with breakfast, worked from 8-noon, helped with lunch and took rest until 3, worked from 3-5, helped with dinner and ate and relaxed until bed (which, after a long day in the fields, you really wanted bed by 9pm...).  SOME of the work really was the hardest, most physically challenging, and tedious work I have ever done in my life. Really. I don't want to complain, because I signed up for it, but it was hard. Cutting down tall bean stalks in 80-90 degree temperatures is no easy task. BUT, that being said, we did get to rest during the hottest part of the day (which I think is intentional on part of the farm) AND the work was fair. 

I also learned a lot about cooking (spices, organic foods, how to make chipatis and paranthas - get ready for Indian food if you want it....) so that was an added bonus. It was also nice to spend the days on the farm with Sarah. She has been traveling independently for over one year - in Hawaii and throughout Asia. She had some incredible stories and truly gave me a lot of confidence to continue traveling independently. We were also joined by David (from Germany) later in the week. How often would I get to hang out with International kids on a farm? Not much - it was a good time.

Some other farm highlights:

1) Suresh - the crazy volunteer manager; you'll have to ask me about him if you want stories.

2) the bike rides into town with Sarah

3) the Rajasthanian Sunsets... unbelievable

4) the Hindi Comedies on television after dinner

5) the cockroaches in my food --- ok, that one isn't really a highlight, but more of an unfortunate recollection

Overall, it was a good time. A time I don't think I need to repeat again, but a good enough time for sure. Definitely: a learning experience, which is exactly what I wanted.

 Sunset from the fields

Sarah, David and I decided to all head into Jaipur together. A hotel would be cheaper with three... and I think all of us wanted some company venturing back into a city. We explored some of the famous Jaipur bazaars together and had dinner at this really incredibly busy place called Thali House - there was an unlimited plate of Indian cuisine for just Rs. 70 ($1.50) - it actually became overwhelming to have so much food on your plate at one time. It was great to walk around the city with them - in fact, just meet them and spend time with them.

 A view of Jaipur from a local hang out spot 

The famous Tiger Fort somewhere hidden in the hills

  

Sarah (Switzerland) and David (Germany)

Really.. such great people

So.. now I am hanging out in Jaipur for the day. Sarah and David are off to Puskar for the world famous camel festival. I will soon be in Goa, and probably reunited with 80% of our group from Mysore. And in less than a week, I will be back in Mysore... it's crazy how time flies. At the same time, traveling this consistently is tiresome. It can be frustrating. It can be lonely... and it can be overwhelming. I am having some incredible adventures though, and will have so many stories to share. I am safe and doing well though, so that is always what is most important.

Traveling around India: Update Part One

I have come to the end of my first week of traveling. I wanted to share a few things about what I have been up to this last week, because much has happend. Some good...some not so good...and some nestled in between those feelings.  I'll run through some things quickly (with some pictures, because those are always better to look at than my silly descriptions); sorry for any typos or nonsensical writing.. I am on a short Internet time allotment.

First stop: Shanti Bhavan School (aka, the She's the First school in India!)
http://www.shantibhavanonline.org/

When I realized this school was so close to Mysore, I could not pass up the opportunity to make a stop. The school was so incredible, that when I have more time.. I am going to write an entire post about it. I posted the web URL in case people were interested in knowing a little more. Basically, the school is in the middle-of-no-where-Tamil Nadu (the state right next to Karnataka). The staff, the kids, and the other volunteers were incredibly welcoming and wonderful. I really loved it there.

This is me with Miss. Shilpa's 4th grade class

Also, me + lots of kids = happy Sarah

 After my (too-short-of-a) visit to the school, I traveled back to Bangalore to catch a flight to New Delhi. I have been in India for over two months now, but something about traveling to New Delhi made it feel like I was actually in India.  It is just such a big place. My plane was delayed for quite a while, meaning I got in late. I was so tired though, that I settled for an over priced room in a kind of sketch neighborhood.  Nevertheless, there was a roof over my head, and I got to fall asleep to the Titanic :)

I did have to wake up really early to make my way to the bus stop that would be taking me to Agra. That's right, I was on my way to see one of the Wonder's of the World: THE Taj Mahal!  The bus system in India, especially in Delhi, is so confusing. So many came and went, and when I finally stepped onto the bus I would be traveling on, I was in awe that I even found it in the first place. However, I did make it and seeing the Taj was well worth the crazy long journey, the confusion getting on the bus, and (maybe) one of the worst nights of my life.

There she stands

Honestly, one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen in my life; it didn't even seem real that I was there

 Oh come on, you would have done it too...

So, one of the worst nights of my life.... the tour company said we would arrive in Delhi around 10:30-11:00 pm. My brain told me, "that is ample time to get to the area where you have to catch your bus the next morning AND find a hotel..." IN FACT, many people throughout the day ENSURED me that I would be ok. Well, the your bus finally arrive in New Delhi around 3:30am... and dropped me off in the sketchiest location I have ever been in that late/early in the morning. I was so frightened. Not to mention, there were no hotels anywhere in sight. With the help of a good rickshaw driver, and the assistance of the bus service, I found the tour agency and sat outside the office from 3:30 until I had to catch my bus the next morning to Haridwar at 9:00am. It was one of the longest AND most exhausting nights of my life, but I made it... I am alive.. and I am so thankful that there are good people in the world who can help you when you really need it. Please believe me though when I say: NO ONE wants to be in Delhi at 4:00am, alone. (ps. Mom & Dad, I am ok!)

I really did become ok too, because the third stop on my journey was to Haridwar, one of the holiest cities in India.  However, when I called Joseph (who was traveling with Brie, Laura, and Kat) I found out that they ended up in the little town/village of Rishikesh! It turns out, this place in MUCH more beautiful. It, literally, is nestled between the foothill mountains of the Himalayas. It is also right where the Ganga (Ganges) River exits the mountains. The place is absolutely beautiful, AND crawling with hippies... so I felt very happy and comfortable there. It is the town home to many Ashrams, and in fact.. it is even home to the Maharishi
Mahesh Ashram where the Beatles recorded the White Album. It is very peaceful and beautiful. I have included a few photographs, but they really don't do the place justice.

I have also eaten my weight in food. We found a little place called The Little Buddha Cafe, and it is actually the most delicious food I have ever had. For a town where you can sleep and eat for approximately Rs. 400 a day (that works out to be about $5) I am quite satisfied.  Additionally, it was nice to join up with the group again... even for just a few short days.  Overall, the time in Rishikesh has been a peaceful escape from (1) CRAZY Delhi and (2) a hectic end to my semester. That being said, I have lounged along side the Ganges River in the Himalayas while everyone else is studying for midterms...

My next stop will be Delhi for an afternoon to catch my bus to Jaipur... and from there I will head to the farm just outside Jaipur where I will be WWOOFing for 10 days. (WWOOF is Willing Workers on Organic Farms - where you trade farm labor for room/board).  I know nothing about farming, but I am excited to learn.  Until another update, I am safe... happy... and learning a ton.

Adventure of a Lifetime

In just over three hours, I will be embarking upon the trip of a lifetime.  The day has come; our little group of 10 is about to split up and explore the entire country of India!  ...ok, not the entire country, but far away pockets of it.  We have 3 1/2 (uninterrupted!) weeks of travel time built into our semester abroad and I couldn't be more excited. And scared. And nervous. And thrilled. And... all of the above.  Below, you will find a quick schedule of where I will be and when.  YES - you are reading correctly; I will be visiting the Himalayas!

 
Click to see it bigger!

Internet access will be scarce, so don't be offended if you don't hear from me.  Additionally, if I am able to, I will update this silly blog with pictures and/or stories.  I am sending all my love to everyone, and am praying for a fun (AND SAFE) trip.

Elephant Blessing

I'll allow the picture to speak for itself

Photo Cred: Kat Williams

Buddha is Beautiful

Earlier this week, a small group of us decided to visit Namdroling - a Tibetan Monastery not too far from Mysore.  Nestled off the Indian back roads, this place was a little oasis of sorts.  We were also lucky to have picked such a beautiful day to go.  The monastery is home to nearly 5000 monks and nuns and is a center for the pure upholding of the teachings of the Buddha.  I had an incredible time exploring the grounds, enjoying the peace found within each temple, and simply feeling like I was outside of India for a short while.  It was an entirely different world there.  Not to mention, I chowed down on some delicious Chicken Dumplings at a Tibetan Hotel - something you definitely don't get in downtown Mysore.  Also.. I am really enjoying all of the religious experiences I am having on this trip. Truly.

 The Golden Temple 

 Tibetan Culture is so colorful and beautifully decorated

 The Prayer Hall

 Anyone who knows me knows I love Tibetan Prayer Flags..

 They were everywhere (obviously)

But it was beautiful

Lame-Loner-Tourist-Shot

Not quite Bollywood...but close(ish)

Last night, our group was invited to a traditional south Indian wedding.  So, we got all dressed up in our fancy Saris and made our way to such a beautiful venue.

 From Left-Right: Sherry, Brie, Joseph, Laura, Kate, Me, Jake, Kat, Victoria, and Nina

P.S. The sky is really that color in the evenings..

Corn Shot: Me in my Sari

 The Wedding Venue

 The two with the Jasmine Garlands around their necks: the Bride and Groom

She was a former V-LEAD student and distant relative of Sindhu

The dinner was so different from anything I had ever experienced, especially at a wedding.

We all filed into the basement of the venue and waited a while for a table to open up; there were rows and rows of them.  The service staff laid out parchment paper in long strips and then assembly-line-style refreshed all the table settings: a banana leaf to eat off of, water, and the meal (which was delicious!). At the end everyone got a gift (they differed based on if you were male or female). I got a silver dish with kumkum (the red powder) and offering rice. Although everything was very fast paced, it was very nice.  There was live Carnatic Music, video camcorders - recording everything, especially the group of 10 white kids awkwardly standing in the room - and a delicious meal. It was nice to be able to attend a traditional wedding. Additionally, it was nice to feel all dressed up for the first time since being in India. 

Would you like to watch the Indian sun with me?

The sun is just so beautiful here.
Rising or setting; it doesn't matter what part of the day you catch it.

 Yes, an Indian sunset with a monkey in the forefront 

As promised, Jesse, here are the "beautiful sunsets" I told you about.

Real Life: Northern Karnataka Edition

The delay in my blogging was due to a recent 9 day trip to the northern part of Karantaka. Well, I am back: a bit sunburned, a bit poorer, (I just could not stop buying and eating food - so much for losing weight in India...) and significantly more in love with India.

I will begin with: this could become a long post; I will not be offended if you just look at the pictures.  That being said, this past week, I saw some of the most beautiful landscapes and buildings and monuments I have ever seen in my life, therefore the pictures will speak for themselves.  If nothing else - after all, it was intended to be a learning experience for our Culture and Civilization Course - the mini-vacation we got to go on opened my eyes to some of the true Indian beauty.  In that, I feel very fortunate to have been able to travel to some remarkable places.

On September 24th, I experienced my first-ever train ride! (unless you count the metro/Boston T/rail to get to the grand canyon...)  Best of all, I got to experience the "Sleeper Train," which basically is a cabin of bunk-cots that you sleep on during an over night train ride.  We left Mysore around 10 pm and arrived in Hubli around 7:30 am.  Aside from the horrific smell of poop/whatever those smells were (my cot happened to be closest to the on-board "bathrooms") the train was very pleasant.  You didn't get a ton of room, but honestly you didn't need it.  They give you sheets and a blanket and you set up camp.  I practiced sleeping (aka spooning) with my backpack so that I feel more confident traveling during my independent travels coming up in (eeep) two weeks.  The nice sway of the train actually made sleeping comfortable.  That was until a baby started to cry..

 

Hope you're not claustrophobic... 

Then we met up with Suresh (our awesome driver) and were on route to Badami...

...where after two hours of driving we pulled up to this; home sweet home (and sweet it was) for two days. Two to a cabin, we each got a comfortable bed/shower/amazing amenities. 

Right across the street there were beautiful rocks and canyons, so after a quick lunch a few of us decided to explore.  We hiked up pretty far and man, was it beautiful?  The best part: climbing over-head to two young women collecting brush at the bottom of the canyon.  After brief greetings, one of the women asked, "How's my India?" It was just such a wonderful moment and it was even more incredible to shout back down, "It's beautiful, I love it!"

 

Northern Karnataka is definitely more arid/desert-like than Mysore, so getting used to the heat was something all of us struggled with at one point or another.  Climbing on these rocks in jeans definitely left me a bit dehydrated and sunburned.  After afternoon exploration we headed to the Badami Caves.  I'll allow these pictures to speak for themselves...

 Yeah.. I know 

 The caves; the color of the stone is incredible

 No big deal..

 Kat and Joseph; the city of Badami behind them

 View of the temple from the caves

 Kat, Laura and Sherry at the temple

 And here is where the head-scarf-wearing began... to "avoid" sunburns

Also, it was just unbearably hot

Side note: going on day 2 1/2 of being in those clothes. Yum. I can't wait to travel for 3 weeks.

 And they mean it

"Menace" is NOT an understatement

 Grumpy-old-George Bush-monkey

The next morning we got up really early for our hike across the Sandstone Hills to reach a prehistoric cave in a place called Shidaphadi.  I was on a 'no-camera' spree during the hike, in which I simply trudged ahead of the chatty group to peacefully enjoy such a beautiful morning.  The sights were gorgeous and by the time I got to the top of the hills, I could not resist from snapping a few shots.  

There was just so much green

From there we traveled to a very religious place called Mahakuta; it is an important place of worship for Hindus and the location of a well-known Shiva monastery.  Before going to swim (yes, I said swim) in the sacred pool, we ate some delicious breakfast (Umpa, Idlies and Sambar) under a Bandar tree full of monkeys. Then we were able to cool off in the sacred pool, which was the coolest thing ever.  Basically, we were swimming in an old  bath where temples surrounded us. Aside from the consistent stares I received from the young Indian men (especially being a florescent white girl in a bathing suit...) it was an incredible break from the Indian heat and the morning hike.

mhm, real life

The last stop of day 3 was a trip to the temple complex at Pattadakal.  There, we were able to wander about 10 different Hindu temples.  Although the architecture was relatively the same among all of them, each was slightly different which made exploring the grounds fun.  Additionally, there were groups of Indian students visiting the temples with their respective schools too, and they were eager to come interact with us.  I even gave them my "autograph" a few times: Sarah from the USA.  The most memorable person I met though was a woman named Pushpavathi; she was sitting in one of the temples just enjoying the purpose of the place and the shade.  I sat with her and a few of the other girls in my group while she taught us some basic Kannada (people here are always interested in teaching you more language once you initiate a conversation in Kannada and they realize your knowledge only takes the conversation so far).  At the end of our meet and greet, she gave us (Brie, Kate, and I) bangles to keep. She obviously didn't have to, and I felt badly for having nothing to give to her in return, but she did it graciously and I will never forget being under the shade of that temple with her. Plus, I kept my beautiful ನೀಲಿ (nili/blue) bangle.

 

 Their Saris just look so beautiful with the temple/blue sky scenery 

The next morning we left for the town of Aihole (pronounced properly as Eye-Hole-Aye - but we still liked to say A-hole, especially when we saw a sign that said "Welcome Aihole" instead of "Welcome To Aihole").  This small town is essentially a town of temples. In Aihole, they built over 125 temples in various styles and for various religions, and it is said to be a 'laboratory of experiments in rock cut architecture.'  The views of the village were beautiful and it is interesting to think that people currently reside in little houses directly next to/behind/or in front of amazing ancient temples.

 Buddhist Temple

 Temples of all kinds were simply scattered throughout the landscape

 A part of the Jain complex

 Jake meeting and eating (...sunflower seeds, not the kids)

Joseph: on top of the world.. or at least the Buddhist Temple

After a tour of another temple complex in Aihole, we packed up our stuff, teared up over leaving our cottages, and traveled toward Bijapur.

Bijapur had beautiful things to see and do, but over all it was a dusty and dirty city.  We were only staying there for one night, and it was basically to see the magnificent Gol Gumbaz.  Before our private morning tour of that (thanks to some special strings that were pulled by our program director - and former Archeological Director of India - Dr. Rao) we visited the Ibrahim Rouza, a beautiful Mosque and Tomb in the heart of Bijapur.  It was here that I fell in love with Muslim Architecture.

 Sight from the entrance; I know...

...not real

 Everything is just so ornate and beautifully designed

 Had to get my corny tourist shot in..

The next morning was what was really special: the Gol Gumbaz.

Because of Dr. Rao, our group got to go inside the tomb before it opened to the public. The structure is 156 ft tall on each side and capped with a dome 144 ft in diameter.  At each of the four corners of the cube is a dome-capped octagonal tower seven stories high with a staircase inside. The upper floor of each opens on to a round gallery which surrounds the dome, in which there is the famous whispering walk.  Basically, the slightest echo transmits a very audible sound all throughout the cap of the dome. Amounting to 18,000 sq ft, the mausoleum has one of the biggest single chamber spaces in the world!  Since we were able to go so early in the morning, it was nice and quiet.  Additionally, I was able to witness one of the most beautiful sunrises of my life.

 There she stands..

 A view of the staircase chamber

 Bijapur from the top

 I'm telling you, beautiful

This is me (1) trying to capture a moment (2) trying to be artsy

Just before we left the Gol Gumbaz, we came across these folks

I am told they were looking at a turtle in the dirt

All I could look at was the Indian-Carrot-Top..

The rest of the afternoon was traveling to Hospet; that is where the rest of our trip would be.

So if the little cottages in Badami were amazing, the place we stayed at in Hospet (the Malligi Hotel) was beyond spectacular. First, there was a pool. Second, there was a pool.. Third, the dining was amazing. Fourth, I had hot showers (3 days in a row!). Fifth, I ate pancakes for breakfast... Sixth, I gained 50 pounds. End of story. Oh.. and there was a pool.

So, below are some photos of Hampi.  Hampi is about 9km from Hospet and was the main attraction of our trip up to northern Karnataka.  Basically, Hampi is a beautiful ancient town that became home to the Vijayanagara Empire from 1336 to 1565.  It is made up of several temples and courtyards and enclosures (for the royalty of the empire that dominated for over two hundred years).  The whole area was destroyed though by the Muslim confederacy, thus has been excavated and restored over the last 40+ years.  Honestly, the three days we spent there were incredible - everything was so beautiful and remarkable. It was neat to walk through the buildings (or ruins of buildings) that stood home to a significant empire not too long ago.

 Virupaksha Temple

Stood prior to the Vijayanagara Empire

 Hampi Gypsies 

 Corny Meditation Pose

 Joseph looking pensive outward on Hampi landscape

 Sherry soaking everything in

 ...let's just say we held our bladders

 I was blessed by this temple elephant

Basically, that consisted of placing a rupee in his trunk and then having his trunk swing up and rest on the back of my head

No big deal, I guess..

 Along the Tungabhadra river

 Things are just built right into the rocks, which made things beautiful to explore

 The Vitthala Temple and the Stone Chariot

*creeper alert*

Kid Rock decided to join us too....

 Old Bazaar Stands

Bazaar means market

 The Kings Balance 

This was used on ceremonial days, where scales were hung from the transom and the Raya (or the emperor) was ceremonially weighed against gold or jewels. The treasure were then distributed to Brahmins 

 Krishna Bazaar

 Narasimha Temple/Statue

 The Landscape; the mountains are what really got me

 Brie and me, with the land Dr. Rao excavated behind us

 I needed a picture with Suresh, our amazing van driver

 The Lotus Mahal

 Zanana Enclosure

 An Elephant Stable

Unfortunately there were no elephants to see inside..

 The famous Rangamahal (or aqueduct)

 The group looking out at the Royal Enclosure Area

They are standing on top of the Kings' old performance space

We left Hampi on Saturday, made the long drive back to Hubli to catch another late over-night train, and then arrived back in Mysore the morning of October 2nd.  It is (1) hard to believe it is October (2) more difficult to fathom my Junior Fall semester is two weeks from over (as far as academics are concerned) and (3) good to be back in a place I feel like is home: Mysore.  Although the trip was amazing, it is always nice to come back to something familiar. Even if that is a cold bucket shower.